Town of Banff

Guy Lacelle, Climber

Guy Lacelle is widely regarded as one of the world’s leading ice climbers, having established and repeated many of the most extreme ice climbs in the Canadian Rockies. He climbs almost exclusively solo and in remote locations that are difficult of access, his only companion being his faithful dog, Sam.

This extraordinary level of commitment, combined with a refusal to indulge in self promotion, have made Guy an unsung hero to the mountaineering community.

A native of Hawksbury, Ontario, Guy started climbing while pursuing a physical education degree at the University of Ottawa. His first climb was the 300 foot La Congelee (W13) on the massive Chute Montmorency outside Quebec City, which he completed with a partner in seven hours, a climb he has since soloed in less than five minutes.

His first trip to the Rockies was in 1983, when he and partner Alain Chasse climbed  Polar Circus, a fierce route near the Columbia Icefields. He later went on to teach winter courses for Outward Bound in Ontario and guide for the Yamnuska Mountain School in Canmore, Alberta. In 1988, he traded teaching and guiding for a new lifestyle, tree planting in the summer months and climbing in winter.

Typically, he will spend fifty to sixty days climbing ice during the winter season. Guy’s current base camp is in Prince George, British Columbia, where he lives with his wife, Marge Lachecki, and their five dogs.
 
Guy Lacelle’s recent climbing accomplishments span the globe and include: The Terminator (W16+), Troubled Dreams (W15) and Sea of Vapours (W15, Canadian Rockies, 1997); The Fang (W16), Rigid Designator (W14) and Ames Ice Hose (W15,Colorado, 1997); Capitaine Courageux (W15, France, 1996); Curtain Call (W16)  and Malignant Mushroom (W15, Canadian Rockies, 1995); Au-dela des Ombres (W15, France, 1994); Hydenfossen (W16, Norway, 1993); Back Off (W14, Utah, 1992); and Pilsner Pillar (W16) and Iron Curtain (W16, Canadian Rockies, 1990).